“It’ll be fine. It’s only a misting rain,” I say to reassure my wife, before we ventured into the elements. But barely a few minutes in and I feel that the very gods worshipped on this hill are set on thwarting our visit. My wife was certainly not impressed.
I recently visited the ancient site, the seat of Irish High Kings, to experience the place I’d spent so many hours studying. I’d love to say it was a magical, thrilling experience, that it lived up to the ancient history, that the site was filled with information and things to see. Sadly that was not the case.
The Site
On arriving there are five information panels which provide a good overview of the layout of the grounds (see the image gallery). They summarise where each of the features are located and what they are thought to have been based on the archaeological evidence discovered. However, after you leave this point, there is almost no signage or information to help visitors navigate what is a relatively complex set of archaeological sites. Even the signage that did exist wasn’t always visible – such as in the picture of me below beside La Fáil.
I’ll not lie, the sleeting rain didn’t help matters, neither did the lack of paths or other visitors (as everyone else had the sense to check the weather first), but there really could’ve been so much more made of this site. Especially when I consider what’s been achieved at Fort Navan, this really is such an opportunity to celebrate Irish history, and one I hope will develop in the years to come.
All that said, I’m still so glad I went. This is a piece of ancient Ireland which really cannot be missed. My frustration was less to do with the way it is, and more what I imagine it could become.
The significance of the site, the many stories it has inspired and represents, cannot be overstated. Therefore, I would still highly recommend going – only make sure and check the weather first…and then also bring a coat. It is Ireland after all!
Advice to visitors
Bring hiking shoes as you may find yourself trekking through muddy paths. Carpark is €2 and very easy to use. Little cafe is a little pricey and very busy. If the weather permits, would recommend a picnic instead! Lastly, check out the quaint bookshop – I found two classics of PW Joyce which made my day!
